From Bleaklow Head to Margery Hill is one of the roughest, most inhospitable bits of Britain south of Hadrian’s Wall, and to keep to the watershed you have to take, as termed by the originators, ‘some sharp corners’ that lead annoyingly away from the general intended direction. The saving grace is that you are walking along a parish boundary and there are a series of marker stones to guide you on your way. Apart from these, and the obligatory grice, there is little to catch the eye and it was therefore a moment of mutual surprise that, turning a corner of a deep twisting grough on the north slopes of Margery Hill, I came face to face with a fox. This was not one of your Beatrix Potter foxes, all bushy tail and quizzical expression. This was a stringy alsatian sort of fox and the word ‘rabid’ sprang to mind. However, both parties were aware of the proper proportions of discretion and valour, with the vulpine Falstaff making the more graceful exit. Eventually, the land regains some definition and a ridge leads via Howden Edge and the head of Abbey Brook to Back Tor.

Now comes the moment of truth. The logical way home is to continue down the ridge of Derwent Edge to Ladybower House and thence to the starting point, but the Watershed needs to encompass streams running off Strines and Moscar Moors and a detour is required via Strines Inn, Moscar Lodge and Stanage High Neb before the walker descends over Bamford Edge to the Yorkshire Bridge Inn and a well-deserved pint.