We were lucky enough just at this moment to see two of the King’s coaches with 8 horses (himself being in one of them), with a party of Guards, drive off from the Palace gate. The outside of this palace, and of the Louvre, are more than equal to my expectations. They are truly Royal, and the familiar way the people were admitted into the palace yard, up to the very door, occasioned me to draw an unfavorable comparison between this Court and that of Carlton House. In Paris every thing is done to please and make happy the common people. In England their feelings are too much disregarded.

I felt the difference forcibly in that part of the Jardin des Plantes where the menagerie of Wild Beasts is situated. Unlike ours in the Tower, they are so placed that over a railing about 4 feet high, any body who pleases can see that fine collection of animals at a distance of about 5 feet from their dens. I remarked a circumstance which I have no doubt is a consequence of the continual access of the public, which was that the animals seem to have lost their ferocity in a greater degree than I have before noticed any where, & at the same time the public at all times enjoy the innocent pleasure of beholding a sight, always more or less interesting. In particular, several deep paved courts of considerable size, into which you look over a parapet, where several bears are kept, with a tree in the middle of each for them to climb up, form a source of constant entertainment to the Parisians.

They are also admitted to a part of the Jardin des Plantes, through which are broad walks in every direction, edged with trees, and seats at intervals. The plants are inclosed in parterres, in rows labeled, & can be seen by every one, over a slight fence of lattice work. Adjoining the gardens are various enclosures for different sorts of animals: Elephants, Dromedaries, varieties of Deer, of Birds, &ca–a great variety. Many of these are also accessible to the public. Also adjoining this collection is the amphitheatre of Anatomy, a most curious collection, consisting of Mummies from Egypt & Teneriffe, also various other human specimens & monstrosities of all kinds, an astonishing number. Among other objects, I noticed the skeleton of the Camelopardalis, & the skin of a Human head with the hair and beard on, dressed into leather, of not much less thickness than that of a sheep, skeletons of Men, Beasts, Birds, Fishes & Serpents, admirably disposed and arranged, together with a great variety of surgical curiosities.

© Millrace books 2007